Road Trip Estonia: 7 Charming Days In And Around Tallinn
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When I first looked into the Baltics, and especially Estonia for a road trip, I was fascinated by pictures of beautiful churches and forests, folklore, and rich history dating back to both the Vikings and, more recently, the Soviet Union.
ABOUT THIS ITINERARY: This itinerary is mostly focused on the hidden gem restaurants and bars that the locals showed me, so get ready for a food tour!
I opted to stay in the north this time around because I fell in love with the capital city of Tallinn and the surrounding forests. All in all, my week-long trip was filled with good food, good beer, and the added bonus of learning about the Estonian people and their culture.
What to Do with 1 Week in Estonia
My week around northern Estonia was one of the more pleasantly relaxed road trips I’ve taken in Europe. I only ended up renting a car for a couple of days to go into Lahemma National Park and made it a point to do 1 or 2 things a day while in the capital city of Tallinn.
I focused on taking it slow, enjoying the food and beer, and learning the culture. Here’s how my itinerary was loosely structured.
Day 1: Tour of Charming Old Town Tallinn
I went on the Guided Walking Tour of Old Town Tallinn. It was wonderfully educational and a great way to spend the first morning learning about Estonian culture, language, history, and politics.
PRO TIP: See if you can get onto the free walking tours of Tallinn (they were canceled due to Covid when I was there) but I heard they were wonderful! I usually tip about $10 for the free tours.
The tour guides have lived their lives in the city and are wonderful about answering all of the questions – from why Estonian words have so many letters that repeat to what Estonians believe in when it comes to higher powers.
Once you’ve finished the tour, walk around on your own and take your time in each spot. My favorite restaurants and cafes in the Old Town were as follows – spend the week checking them out:
- Rataskaevu 16 – Super cute for date night but also a wonderful dinner spot, especially on the outdoor patio if the weather allows. The service is impeccable and it feels like a little secret paradise, as it is tucked away from the main streets.
- Restaurant Pegasus – With a more upscale vibe, the food is definitely top-notch. My favorite part was the open concept and windows, which allowed for excellent people-watching.
- Lee Restoran – A fusion between Estonian and global cuisines, but wow, the chef is here to slay. I had to try it a couple of times before I could find an open spot to reserve. Super fresh, super local, super delicious.
- Olde Hansa – While this looks like a tourist trap because of the medieval vibe, it’s worth it. The food is great and the vibe is authentic. Live music, good candlelight, traditional food, and costumes are all included.
- Cafe Maiasmokk – Over the top, intricate desserts right in the old town, this little cafe gave me a throwback to Vienna coffee shops. This is a great breakfast or dessert spot – super quaint!
Day 2: Enjoy the Craft Beer Culture of Estonia
For this, I went on a Local Craft Beer tour. Tallinn is super big into the craft brew scene, and the tour is great for a deep education into the different beers, flavor profiles, and equally crafty names – pun intended!
I ended up meeting fellow travelers from Latvia on tour and going out a few nights after to party in Kalamaja as a group. On this road trip, I may not have traveled to the rest of the Baltic states, but I definitely drank with its people. 🙂
Day 3: Port Kalamaja and Noblessner
These parts of town are full of EDM warehouse clubs, beer gardens, and high-end restaurants. And if you walk around the port, you’ll find little pop-up craft beer tents next to abandoned ships from past wars. It’s a great area to party and watch the forever sunset – which I tried my hardest to do most nights!
Here are a few of my recommended food and drink spots:
- Lore Bistro – Very cute, delicious, right on the water, and wonderful for a sunset dinner.
- Pohjala Brewery and Tap Room – If you’re looking for a great atmosphere, an even better beer selection, and a surprisingly fantastic bar-b-que (and I’m from Texas, I would know!), this is for you. Also a great place for Sunday brunch.
- HOGO – Delicious sushi with a fashion-forward, upscale vibe.
Day 4: Happy Hours in Telliskivi
Get ready for stunning murals on every wall and an overall hipster vibe. I was casually informed this is where the “youth of Tallinn” unwind for happy hour and go for a night out. See how many of my favorite spots you can explore in a week:
- Ulo: Great for all my vegans coming through the city – I personally enjoyed the gorgeous cocktails made with fresh juices. This is a nice spot for happy hour and dinner.
- SIP Tallinn: Great selection of local craft beer, this is a great spot to stock up on unique brews for the house and road trip. The shop fits the location well, as it is surrounded by young people, art buildings, and great food options.
- F-Hoone: Great food for a reasonable price, tons of vegan options, and the atmosphere and decor are exactly what you would expect from the neighborhood – artsy and hipster, with a vibe of international.
- Frenchy Bistro: A great spot for brunch in Telliskivi.
- TOPS: Hipster bar great for a couple of drinks. My place was right across the street from here and I would always start and end my night on this corner- super great local vibe for a bar and stays up late!
- Purtse Tap Room – A great selection of amazing house beers named “Bear Hug” and “Unicorn Tears”. This place is perfect for a calm night out with a small group!
Day 5: A Day in Kadriorg Park
Kadriorg Park and the museum inside its walls were built for Catherine the Great, the last reigning Empress of Russia, to invite her to Estonia in style.
Unfortunately, she never ended up visiting, so now, the people of Estonia get to enjoy the beauty of its manicured gardens, lakes, walkways through its forests, and numerous nap spots in the sun. The best way to get to this park is by taxi or the local tram.
There is a super cute cafe as you walk in, The Katharinenthal, where it’s nice to sit on the back patio enjoying a cup of coffee and macaroon.
Day 6 & 7: Road Trip to Lahemaa National Park
You’ll need a rental car for a day or two to get to Lahemaa National Park, as it’s about a 2-hour drive from Tallinn. There are beaches, forest hikes, bogs, lakes, and a few restaurants sprinkled in the woods that serve hot meals and cool drinks. This is a great end of the trip to break from city life.
This is what I used to check rental car prices:
➡️ DISCOVER CARS ⬅️
FAQs About Estonia
During my visit, I discovered that Estonia is a very small but very cozy country.
The people are nice, and the infrastructure is well organized. Estonia’s history is a fascinating tale of conflict and gentleness, its language weird, and its food delicious.
Is Estonia worth seeing?
Off the beaten path and not your usual hot spot in Europe, I found my mini road trip in Estonia to be relaxed, wholesome, and the country absolutely worth a visit.
A few things I found absolutely lovely about Estonia:
✔️ Estonians are incredibly secular and therefore do not formally belong to any religious group. To this end, they are super close to nature and bury their deceased deep in the forests to honor them. They also believe trees have souls. 💚
✔️ The Estonian language is most similar to Finnish! Tons of double and triple letters around … look at how Tallinn is spelled!
✔️ Craft beer is a huge deal in Tallinn, and the brews are really diverse and incredibly delicious. Cheers to that!
✔️ Russians and Estonians, to this day, still have a tense relationship, and as a result, the communities are segregated around Tallinn. I learned that Russians have their own community outside the city. Here, everything is Russian – grocery stores, barbershops, schools, nightclubs, etc. Likewise, Estonians have their own communities, schools, stores, etc. where everything is Estonian.
What is the best time to visit Estonia?
I love summertime in Estonia because the days are warm and long – great for road trips, days in the city, and long hikes in the national parks! As you are so far up north, when I say long, I mean it – the sun goes down at 3 am and returns at 5 am.
Is Estonia cheap to travel to?
Estonia is part of Schengen, so the country’s currency is the Euro. And yes, compared to a majority of countries in Europe, Estonia is inexpensive and great for a budget trip.
My Airbnb for 5 days was about 250 Euro in the Kalamaja neighborhood – fully equipped with a kitchen and washer. I paid another 80 Euro for a weekend in Lahemaa National Park.
The average cost for lunch in the Old Town is 15 Euro. And I always measure a truly affordable country by the cost of its drinks – 4 euros for a craft beer.
What is the history of Estonia?
The Estonian flag features 3 horizontal lines of blue, black, and white – blue representing freedom from time to time, black representing freedom lost, and white representing independence and a hopeful future. In these colors, the history of Estonia represents itself.
While it is now part of the European Union and NATO, Estonia has been ruled by the Vikings, Swedes, Danish and in more recent history, the USSR. The Baltic states of Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia were under Soviet rule from the end of World War II until their independence in 1991.
Today, Estonia is an independent nation-state known for its charming capital city of Tallinn and its unique history that spans millennia. Estonia is incredibly advanced technologically, is proud of its numerous universities, craft beer culture, and its recent boom in tourism among other things.
Is it safe to travel to the Baltic States?
Yes. In addition to safety, Estonia is not crowded, has a laid-back attitude, and is a well-organized country – ideal for a road trip. That said, mind the regional politics, as there are definitely tensions with Russia.
Planning for an Estonia Trip
From where to stay, if and when you need a car, all the way to budgeting and travel insurance.
Where to Stay in Tallinn?
I ended up getting into Tallinn on a Wednesday and renting a cute spot in the Kalamaja neighborhood, opting to walk or scoot everywhere.
The area is safe, close to the port, and close to all the top restaurants and craft brewpubs. Make sure to stay in the city Fridays and Saturdays for a fun weekend out.
📍 Mid-Range: Hektor Container Hotel – super unique concept of container rooms, but modern and chic. A great spot in a hipster neighborhood, especially if you’re a solo traveler!
📍 Luxury: Rataskaevu Boutique Apartments – Now, this is bang for your luxury buck! And the location is right in the middle of old town Tallinn, close to restaurants, saunas, and Christmas Markets if you’re here for the winter!
What are the roads like in Estonia?
The roads are in good condition and mostly flat. As long as you are careful with your speed and watch for those speed cameras, Estonia is an easy country to road trip.
That said, you might also check the documentation and road rules for driving in Europe as an American.
Lessons Learned for Renting a Car
You’ll only need a car rental for the weekend trip to Lahemaa National Park.
This is what I used to check rental car prices:
➡️ DISCOVER CARS ⬅️
Make sure to take pictures of the car before you head on the road (per usual) and return the car with a full tank of gas. I was charged a pretty large fee for not returning my rental with the exact full tank. From now on, I will take this as a learning experience to use the closest gas station to the drop-off point.
Oh, and for an extra eastern European treat, I looked at more than my extra share of fancy cars – who even own these?! – parked among the torn-down warehouses of Kalamaja.
Do I need Travel Insurance?
If you’re traveling from outside the European Union, you’ll want to review 5 Medical Insurances for Travel in Europe and see what fits best for you.
At about $40 per 4 weeks, I recommend Nomad Insurance because it provides medical coverage. Luckily, I didn’t need to use it for this trip, but it was nice to know it was there. Check and see if it’s for you.
This is what I always use when traveling:
➡️ SAFETYWING: Nomad Travel Medical Insurance ⬅️
Next Time: A Baltic Road Trip in Latvia & Lithuania
So now that I have a taste and a basic knowledge of Estonia’s history and culture of the Baltic states through my mini road trip, I’m ready for more. The next time, I want to rent a sprinter van and take a proper road trip through more National Parks, as well as take a couple of weeks to go through Latvia, Lithuania, and the southern part of Estonia.
